Monday, 22 December 2014

MY INSPIRATION. SO MINIMAL YET INTENSELY INSPIRING. THE ORIGINAL MADAMOISELLE!!!!



The woman credited with liberating women from the "corseted silhouette" and popularizing what came to be known as casual chic. Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel. My eternal obsession.

Lived: August 19 1883- January 10 1971
Parents: Albert Chanel and Jean Dovelle
Awards: Nieman Marcus Fashion Award 1957


                                                

Monday, 7 April 2014

FASHION WEEK OR JUST ANOTHER CIRCUS?

The memory of my first time at fashion week has never left me. I remember how the weeks leading up to the event would create such a buzz in the lives of fashion people along with the followers of the industry. It was a time that was characterized by countless fittings, interesting hairstyles and all other unconventional and very necessary polishing acts required.
My first time was during the Africa Fashion International week where I had received complementary double tickets from one of sponsors after having contributed to one of the flagship shows a few days prior to the main launch. I had chosen distressed denim pants, brown brogues, fitted tweed jacket and had had my hair freshly cut in the style of the then not as yet popular Mohawk style. Fresh out of fashion school and bursting with big ideas and even bigger dreams, I was a boy with stars in his eyes. I wanted to one day be seen walking down the glossy, black runway to take my bow in front of what I imagined would be an admiring audience that I would have blown away.
The first day saw me sitting on one of the couches along the front foyer. For what seemed like hours, I had been forced to wait for my plus one to arrive who would be my partner in fashion for all the shows, which I had tickets to. I was mostly looking forward to the most important show, that being of my idol and inspiration, the great David Tlale. His show was scheduled for 10 PM as the finale, rightfully so I should add. Smoke twirled around my face incessantly as I puffed away at one cigarette after the other, an effort on my part to come across as natural as possible.
Fitting in was of outmost importance because I wanted everyone looking in to believe that this was just another event in my everyday life and I was also quite determined not to let any celebrity or media presence intimidate me. I sipped on a cider to balance out the smoking exercise and also took to engaging in random conversations with strangers I would encounter about the latest trends, who was hot and who was not and other such related things as all of us waited for the curtain call.
The air kissing and put on smiles tend to get a bit much, I later realised and as such was only too glad when my plus one eventually arrived. He had never been strong in the style department and because of this I had given him strict instructions on what to wear. The obsession was so bad that I had insisted on a full dress rehearsal the night before. We took tons of photographs wherein I made sure mine were taken under a large banner with king David donning his trademark afro just below his profile to serve as an enviable backdrop. Of course we flooded Facebook as we uploaded as many photos as we could. This life was one I was convinced I deserved as I took in the stares and admiration from the other patrons who seemed intrigued by the young, edgy and classic aesthetic I seemed to exude. Look, I was at fashion week, so of course the attention was exciting. I was among legends and this could be my big break. I was at the centre of the reason why the countless designers, models and coordinators had tirelessly planned towards for months to be perfect for the four day affair.
It seemed and felt as though Johannesburg was born anew each time Fashion Week happened. Venues such as The Sandton Convention Centre, Museum Africa and the like became sacrosanct and holy grounds of sorts as the gods of fashion from every imaginable corner gathered in killer heels, fitted suits, bright lights and cigarettes to congregate and take it all in.
Opening night saw corridors and foyers of the venues looking and sounding like a scene taken straight out of the cult film, The Devil Wears Prada. We, well, I came alive as all my dreams saw realisation. Time on the open runway belonging to the attendees saw happenings that could only be found within the confines of the industry. A stealy model running late could trot past all flustered like Caster Semenya to make the make-up rooms just in time for the dimply lit auditorium to begin the show.
If one listened carefully, they could hear people’s hearts racing in anticipation. It was all about to happen and I had the best tickets in the house to experience it in all its glory. Fantastical and fun days in fashion, those were.
This is why I find it sad how recently that unimaginable hype is anything but the same as when I first experienced it all those years ago. Fashion Week is no longer what it used to be and even amidst the dead vibe and near detrimental procrastination feel of being there is no longer the same. It’s as if it has lost its lustre.
The front row seats alongside the runway have been desecrated. How back then they had been reserved by the special guests of the designers, big clients, fashion buyers and magazine editors because of their contributions to the industry and the very success of the shows and designers, they are now filled haphazardly by nobodies in borrowed clothes and over the top homosexuals claiming to be fashion bloggers or whatever other made up title that crossed their heavily glossed lips when asked after.
These posers often haven’t the foggiest idea who the designers are or even which season is being shown. The prospect of being in the front row alone sounded like too glamorous a thought to pass up. As though to confirm their ignorance and lack of couth they go on to take endless #Selfies using their oversized Samsung handsets acquired on contract or credit so they can post endless and out of focus photos on Instagram which more often than not result in no more than six ‘likes’.
 
It is for this reason that the designers, models, photographers and all the other people who work hard for their crafts to be showcased no longer get the coverage and publicity that they absolutely deserve.

In the reviews, all you see is irrelevant individuals in soft porn costumes and concrete make-up. This then deviates the focus of the purpose of this platform.
The days when Fashion Week was about the business of fashion or at least about the designers are gone. The designers themselves are also getting shadier by the day. But that's a topic for another day altogether.

So now what must happen? Who is to blame for the betrayal of the art of fashion and the unwanted onset of the fabulous, air-blown kisses generation? How do we remedy an industry and a platform that many don't seem to see fault with?
What happens to an industry that so many strive for daily? To the individuals who work so hard to feed into this industry in an attempt to let it feed them?
How do we repair the notion that all that is fashion is stupid and fickle when in all honesty all you see there are posers and unoriginal pop art ambassadors?

Do you not think that if we [the ones who actually consider this a job] don't protect our own art, then it cannot feed and sustain us?
Can we not claim our rightful place from the ones who only know and understand fashion only from the diluted collections of designers in departments stores as opposed to the art and the business that it really is?

Fashion is not by far a solution to wars, the homophobic killings in Africa or an aid to AIDS, but for some of us, this is our life. Its how we pay our rents and TRY to feed ourselves.

There is a whole new generation of talented people who actually deserve the thin publicity in the fashion industry. Instead, mediocrity is what claims the spotlight in 2014.

With that being said, how do we protect a platform that is meant to showcase the crafts of designers, models, buyers etc?
How to we protect a platform that is inviting and welcoming to the open public from exploitation and mediocrity?
Can we even still protect it or do we just succumb to the its terrible standards even though its sole purpose is to protect and escalate our craft?

Thursday, 12 September 2013

STYLE BIO. ZBU MASOMBUKA





" Sibusiso Masombuka, Zbu, as most people would call me, is a boy from Benoni. I moved to JHB in 2011 to further my studies in BA Psychology and Anthropology at the University of Johannesburg, now doing my final year. I just turned 21 so I am yet to learn more about myself and hopefully turn some interests into serious professions. 
When I started off with my psychology degree i had no idea what i was getting myself into. However, i was certainly channeled into a field that I've gradually fallen in love with. I'm planning on studying further and hopefully obtain my doctorate in Educational Psychology. The idea of helping people out has been a primary instinct considering the manner in which i was socialized in.
My interest in fashion started at a very juvenile age, but at that time i couldn't get myself to put clothes together and actually being "stylish". But i guess years of practice allowed me grow progressively. Having to look at my older  brother dress up and get all the attention, put so much pressure on me to actually step up considering that i wasn't as popular.




   


                                                                                           


In my 1st year i was privileged enough to work for quite a big international brand when it first launched in SA, called Superdry. I had no retail experience, but i generally think i got the job  because i was spoke and obviously dressed well (lol) (the trick to getting most things in your life).
I then moved on to to Religion Clothing South Africa, where i recently got the promotion to become the store manager. Quite a big step, and yet i feel like i was  thrown right in the deep end, however  i am learning quite a lot about retail and myself ultimately. So in considering the brands I've worked with, i am more into the European fashion, without letting that box me.

                                                                





                                                               


 In the years that I've been in Jo'burg, my fashion interests excellerated mainly because i saw how people expressed themselves through threads and i think that's when i personified fashion. Fashion became therapeutic for me more than anything else, my friends will tell you that i dress up for tests/exams and more,  just to psyche myself up and curb the nerves. Style is an art,( just with a bit more edge) and every artist expresses themselves differently and thus i acknowledge other people's fashion sense.  With studying psychology and being into fashion so much, I have learned that most people express their emotions or try to build up to a certain emotion.
 The more "controversial" you are with what you wear the more intriguing and unforgettable you are. So gain that confidence and own you look, it worked for me.
"

                                                                

I remember the first time I met Zbu. That moment when u take a second look @ the way you're dressed and are immediately convinced that you could have done better.  That's the precise feeling I got upon our first meeting. Zbu was a "friend" of a friend.
His was a style that was almost so technical. It was the perfect balance of contours and different aesthetics that looked both cheeky and admirable.

One night he steps into a club in a hiding hat, cropped skinny jeans, a dress-like looking t-shirt, Chuck Tailors & and leather & the other, he's in a tailored blazer & fitted slacks. I have come to realize that in a world that is so based on current trends and magazine-fueled influence, he's is one of those rare people who truly harness and exhibit their own style. True to their own mood & silhouettes.






                                                      
                                                               Zbu in State Of Guru
                                                            (shirt available @ R350.00)

 For me, fashion is not what's given or predicted. It's an individual creation. Finding a piece that works for you even when the Jackie Burgers and Dion Changs disagree. It is a current interpretation of self. Influenced by past, present and future experiences and moods. I've always admired the one who wore a dashiki in typical Marc Jacobs surroundings. Fashion for me is a personal rebellion. It's a constant need to break the rules and voice your own ideals and convictions. A medium of self expression and refusal to blend in.

For me, Zbu has done and been precisely that. He, along with the likes of Teddy Nkonde, Linda Mthembu & Khotso Thanjekwayo are [allow me to be carried away here for lack of better expressions] like the unspoken soldiers of modern time South African street fashion.

Follow @Zbu_M on Twitter.



#Love&Respect!                      

Tuesday, 27 August 2013

STYLE BIO! XOLI NZAMA


"I discovered my calling for fashion 2 years ago, I've always loved clothes but I didn't wanna make a career out of it and only because I didn't know that I could.
I studied BSC plant pathology at the university of Pretoria. I didn't finish my degree because I was so unhappy, I only studied that because I didn't think I had other options.
2011 I found my calling, my calling in fashion. I started working for Zara. At the time I thought I would work there just for two months and leave and go back to varsity to start studying something else.
At the end of my 1st day at Zara I remember feeling like I was at the right place, I felt like I belonged there. Not only do I work with clothes but I also work with people. I love interacting with different people.
Iv been in love with fashion since then. There is nothing that gives me so much joy!
I want to open my own fashion business in the future. I want to travel the world and meet new people and learn how their culture is, the kind of food they eat, what fashion means to them, the music they listen to.
I'm inspired by the people around me, my friends. They work so hard, they wake up everyday and want to do better. Success is not an option.
Besides fashion I love live music, good food, great chats, art and God.
God is love."

                                       
                                           


I remember having been recently hired @ ZARA for about 2 weeks as a fashion advisor. Fashion had always been what I do and I was already pretty damn good at it. At this point I was still a fish out of water and I remember the only thing important to me at that time being proving myself. I wanted to prove also to myself that I can also work and succeed in commercial fashion as I had come from a high-end fashion background. Needless to say, all eyes were on me.
It wasn't long till I was put into training as fashion coordinator. The coordinators were respected members of the team. These were the people who knew everything. These guys understood the trend, the influence and the market. They were the Emelys and the Andeas of ZARA.

Having been moved up the ladder into the "official glam squad", I was excited because then it became a platform to influence the trends and the image and concepts. Having my 2 cents worth felt like my own contribution on an internationally recognized retail platform.

                                                                                                                      
It was at this point that I met Xolile Nzama. Upon my arrival @ Zara, Xoli had either been on leave or in Cape Town, I think. I had heard of her. In my head I had envisioned a tall bitch with a fabulous weave and a bad attitude. So, naturally, I had already tuned my own attitude into bitch mode for the day of Xoli's return to Sandton.

Seeing Xoli for the first time, really, I rolled my eyes. She was short, had a small voice and a permanent smile on her face. The kind that made me feel silly for having "rehearsed attitude". Xoli and I got introduced as she would be one of the people to officially train me for the "glamorous" new post.

Days went by and months went by and me, Xoli, Ndumiso & Lebo (also fashion coordinators) grew more closer and as thick as thieves. We'd be clad in those silly suits for the duration of our working hours but it was quite evident that each one of us became alive @ the end of our day as we'd change back into our clothes. Every single one of us had an element of their own. It was almost like people came alive when they got out of those dark clothes.

                                                      

Hers was a style that wasn't too different nor too common. She'd always have a balance. One day she'd come in in sequined flats, a skirt, big hair and bright matte lipstick. The next, she'd be in Chuck Tailors, cropped pants and a neon blazer. It was admirable that she'd always balance out everything in a way that was subtle yet eclectic. She firmly secured a place in my black book as a stylish woman who's always understood what's worked for her and made it look amazing. Everything was tailored, neatly pressed and surprisingly often new. Xoli shops!! Trust me, Xoli shops.
I still don't understand why she still refuses to wear dresses though.

 She has just recently established a fashion business of her own. Sourcing out turbans and other accessories from a supplier and making them available to all.
Not only cute, stylish as oh-so-sweet but smart and hustling too. I love it!!!

This is my Pumpsie & she's fierce.

                                      


For TURBANS and more FIERCE FASHIONS, contact Xoli on:

CELL:             0735117888
TWITTER:       @xolinzama_
Email :            retrofashion88@gmail.com

Don't say didn't hook u up!!!

Monday, 26 August 2013

TEA WITH THE EDITOR!

                                                           TEA WITH THE EDITOR!!!

                                                    


The address is Res144  on Anderson, central Johannesburg. The corridors on the 5th floor are long and cold. His is a corner unit. Unit 503. Sounds of Edith Piaf's La Vie En Rose are inviting. As he opens the door, he flashes a smile and leans forward to give a warm embrace. That's when you know you're welcome. Meet Lehlohonolo FashionWidower Senokoane. Editor of Previdar Online magazine.

The furniture gives away that he who exists here is an artist. The oriental scatter cushions, the mannequin dressed as a knight, the gold Alladin-style shoe ashtrays and stacks of books on fashion and human anatomy.
The smell of the burning inscense gives birth to a calmness in the atmosphere. A sense of purity and tranquility.

He dons copped camouflage pants, a tribal print knee length kaftan and a denim cut-out jacket. On his neck hangs a work of metal chaos. A filthy mess that has become known as Coco Moon.  Pure artistic brilliance.
Hlony is tall. Very tall. His stature is almost intimidating but his soft voice is kind. He speaks softly & laughs loudly. We discover that we are both lovers of jazz and that immediately gets us insanely aqcuainted. We flip through music like manics. From Edith Piaf, Salief Keita & Nina Simone to Emeli Sande' & Birdy.
                       
                                   
                                         

I sit on an intriguing piece of furniture. A half mannequin used as an otto-man. Its comfortable and sexy. I'm in love with it. As we sip on boiling hot herbal tea and puff on our cigarettes, we talk about everything. Love, fashion, music & art. We get deeper acquainted with every sip, every song change and every puff of a cigarette. It is a coming together of passionate people who are finding a securing a place in a much complicated and often messed up fashion industry that often requires casual sex, ass licking and backstabbing to remain relevant. An industry that has taught us your talent does not count for much as compared to your firm ass. However, that is a story for another day.  
There is a deafening silence as I ask Hlony of his dreams and aspirations. He searches deep to find the fitting words to sort of paint this picture of his dreams in a way that even I see it almost in a way that he does. There are plans to travel Africa and bombard Paris with African influences.


                                      


Hlony studied graphics at VEGA and worked for one of the most prominent economic development companies in the country as the creative guru. Even in the midst of this promising success in this company, the fashion drum was louder than Microsoft and technical image manipulations. Away from his desk on the 1st floor on Main Street, Hlony was building a much sought after fashion profile as a freelance fashion stylist. This is what gave birth to FashionWidower.

In January this year, Hlony took the decision of following a dream.  He quit his job for an industry that seldom pays what it should. He jumped on board at Previdar and in just 6 months, steered that ship to the very north of the fashion hemisphere.  Previdar became known as "The Church Of Bloody Creatives".


                                     


He acquainted himself with designers, models, photographers, stylists, make-up artists and hairdressers. Artists jumped on board onto what became a shining beacon of hope for artists who were tired of the politics of getting their work into mainstream fashion magazines. Previdar was fast, free and accessible to all. For this reason, it became viral. Cyberspace had never been the same.

There are plans to turn this ship into a plane and fly it higher than ever. Its the understanding that not even the sky is the limit that keeps these artists going. Corporate industries are even taking notice.
For this man, its gone past a point of just fashion. It became a belief, a spirituality and a celebration self and spirit. It became an abstract truth that births curiosity.

Its not a cult. Its a religion







Tuesday, 10 July 2012

THE MEN IN SKIRTS


Have u noticed how boys on the streets, billboards, magazine covers and even on the streets are looking more and more like girls? The fashion industry has been accused of turning men into fairies. Be this true or not, the world is developing and evolving and truth is men are just becoming more & more comfortable with the bang-in-your-face kinda fashion and are just becoming more androgynous with every copy of ELLE, VOGUE, COSMOPOLITAN and ARISE that hits the shelves.
                                                          
                                                          

I, myself, am not sure if this is necessarily a bad thing but one thing for sure, it just looks damn sexy!!! Have u seen pictures of the runways of House of Ole, David Tlale & Ephymol? Chiffon shirts, skirts, harem pants, turbans? And now the invention of "male-heels" (or whatever term they refer to them as)?
Fashion is evolving and designers across the globe are causing a stir. Some of the pioneers of this revolution are Alexander McQueen, Lanvin, Karl Lagerfeld just to name but a few. African designers have also taken these trends to a whole new level. In a continent where a man who dare wears tight pants, or anything that hugs his oh! so beautifully sculptured silhouette is blasphemous and almost even illegal, this has surprisingly been surprisingly very well embraced.
                                                       
                                                     
 Just the other day, in central Johannesburg, I came across a man in sequined harems, a leopard print tee (slit across his chest to reveal dark, pierced nipples), black biker leather jacket (which must have had only about a thousand zips on it) and black suede and leather loafers. This is the type of thing you only get to see on channel 184. Seeing it on the streets is nothing short of orgasmic.

                                                           



This, however, has managed to cause a stir in circles even so far removed from the fashion umbrella. Does this "new" fashion trend now strip us of our "africanism" & "manhood"?
I don't know. Frankly, I don't even care! As long as those boys keep looking as good as they do, I'm one happy camper. And you know what I find ironic? The more these boys look androgynous and almost girly, the more I find it even more masculine. Makes them seem dark, mysterious, sexy and yet so vulnerable! Does that even make sense? Oh well....

                                                     

Truth is, with every turn the earth takes on it's axis,  the fashion keeps evolving and changing. Be it for better or worse, it's happening and we need to claim it and own it, find our identity within it and create our own revolutions.
That's what fashion is about. Well, at least for me it is!

Thursday, 28 June 2012

MANNEQUINS & CIGARETTES!!!

                                                


I've just recently been further annoyed by all the notion that to be fashionably acceptable, you need to be thin. This has been an issue for donkey's years now. I must admit, it only became and issue for me personally when I recently became a 36! Yes, I said it, I'm a size 36. I'm not sure if this just a temporary arrangement or what considering that my weight fluctuates like the mood swings of an Italian woman going through manopause. I have tried every trick in the book to shed the extra kilos but...I was left a 36 still! So...whatever really!!!

 

Anyway, just the other day @ a little gathering, some skinny ass gay boy, puffing on a Courtleigh, says that there is no space for "FAT" people in the fashion industry!!
REALLY?...I mean, it should be a crime this boy to even be allowed to talk about fashion!!
For my own safety, I will not reveal names but MR Price oversized trackpants, Markham boots, a fake Christian Audiger t-shirt from downtown JHB, and fake ass Gucci bag do not necessarily put on front-line as the Hitler of fashion


  

                                                    
So while everyone is so busy discussing who looks more like a cigarette than a mannequin, where do we draw the line as to what is "FASHION"?
I mean I don't need to be educating people about our African silhouettes. Anyone who knows as much as they claim to know, would knw that its not even a common thing for us to be as skinny as the Europeans. We are Africans and AFRICA=BOOTY!
People pay money to look like us yet we fail to embrace what the rest of the world is embracing ABOUT US.
                                              
I mean, the CIGARETTES are paying money to look like the MANNEQUINS but the MANNEQUINS are starving themselves to look like CIGARETTES! Am I the only one who is struggling to find a balance here?
I bet not a lot of us even know why the runway only (well, most of the time) use skinny models.
Allow me to educate: The runway culture was predominantly started by our European counterparts (bear in mind that the majority of the people in these states are skinny anyway) purely for reasons of saving fabric when creating their collections for Fashion Week and stuff like that.
                                                    

 Secondly, the major thing was height. The models needed to be seen by people even on 5th row.  And as we know it, taller people are most likely to be thinner!!! Get it???
So before we start saying that there is no place for "FAT" people in the Fashion industry while puffing on a Courtleigh cigarette that you probably don't even need because you, yourself look like the bloody cigarette, PLEASE bother to be educated!!!
Look, I'm not an activist for some National Obesity Rights Movement, but, all I'm saying is, our curves, our hips and all our full features are what separates us from the rest and we need to embrace it!
                                                     
                                                      
Hey, Haute Couture became what is today because it DARED to be different from all the shit in department stores!!!
JUST SAYING!!! And in true logic, the MANNEQUIN would be the one puffing on the CIGARETTE!!!
So maybe the MANNEQUIN holds the POWER!!!
Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless device